Buenos Aires City Guide

November 6, 2008

One of the main ¨scary¨ things about coming to a new city is the feeling of not knowing even the basics (ok, to be honest, I kinda enjoy that part).

For everyone who needs a one-stop guide to Buenos Aires, here you have it. It covers most basics, but, if there is something you feel is missing, ask and you shall be answered.

Buenos Aires Trip Guide

 

 

 

Arrival

When flying to Buenos Aires, you will arrive in Ezeiza International Airport. There are direct flights from several major US and European cities. At the airport, an I Go Buenos Aires representative will be waiting for you in the well-marked meeting point directly outside the arrivals gate.

 

Food 

            Argentinean cuisine is well-known for it´s world renowned beef. Make sure to enjoy juicy steaks, sausages, and cheeses while here. This is a carnivores´ paradise! For vegetarians, Buenos Aires is also not to be missed. Due to its European roots, local cuisine includes homemade pastas, rich sauces, paellas, delicious ¨escabeches¨ (local olive oil infused vegetables), and eggplant or tofu dishes.

            Besides the well-known dishes, Buenos Aires boasts many other local favorites. Food from the southern Patagonian district includes succulent peasants and farm fresh casseroles.

            Wine is an integral part of Argentina´s cuisine and culture. Grown vastly in the Mendoza region, red wine is favored to accompany most steaks and many pastas. 

 

 

People and Romance

            Argentineans are absolutely gorgeous. One of the rare countries where dark locks, and blue eyes are a common site. Unlike other South American countries, it is relatively common to see blonds, light complexions, and light eyes. People are generally quite slim due to amazing genes and the great care they take to maintain themselves.

            The majority of people under 40 speak at least some English. They are generally well educated as the local university system is free. However, if you speak some Spanish, your chances of meeting a new friend will be greatly increased.

            Many Argentineans live in their family´s home until they are 30 years of age or older. Hence, throughout the city, small ¨love hotels¨ have sprung up. Locals call them ¨transitorios¨ or more vulgarly ¨telos¨. These are not the equivalent of cheap hourly motels! Many couples enjoy time here as they are fully equipped with specially designed beds, showers, up to ¨room service¨ menus to help set the mood. Definitely something to check out!

 

Nightlife

            Buenos Aires is the city that never sleeps. Everything that happens at night in Buenos Aires happens a bit later than in North America. Dinner time is around 9pm until 12am. After dinner, it is common to have a calm drink in a bar. Bars won´t usually fill up until after midnight.

Nightclubs will not even open until 2am. Once nightclubs do fill up, don´t expect hip hop to be played. Argentines usually listen to more electronic or latin pop in the nightclubs. Also, dancing tends to emulate the sexy tango style of dancing with a partner. Unlike dancing at clubs in the US, the ¨bump and grind¨ music video style of dancing is not common in Buenos Aires nightlife.

            At night, Argentine fashion is classy yet sexy. For the ladies, tennis shoes are not common. For the guys, a slightly more metro style is more in fashion.

Each of Buenos Aires neighborhoods has a certain style of bars. Here is a guide to Buenos Aires nightlife zones:

San Telmo- very relaxed with lots of quaint pub style bars.

Puerto Madero- much more upscale and modern

Palermo- ranges from artsy bars to upscale and modern

Barrio Norte- more rock and roll and jazz

Costenera Norte- here you will find a wide range of huge nightclubs

 

Recent History and Safety

           

Buenos Aires is a major cosmopolitan city with a South American flare for fun. After the 2001 crash of the economy, desperation griped a previously very wealthy population. Previously, the Argentine peso had a one to one conversion rate with the US dollar. Many people lost all savings and income in one horrible December day just before Christmas. Most people found ways to return to normal life and have since begun to regain their previous wealth.
            However, much like many major US and European capitals there is now a strong class divide. Also like other major cities, this has caused a rise in petty theft. The most common crime committed against tourists is petty theft. This can be easily prevented by using common sense. Leaving opulent displays of wealth at home or in the hotel, keeping purses and backpacks zipped and guarded, and avoiding dark alley ways are all effective ways to prevent theft.

There are just a few neighborhoods (out of 56 existing) in the city which can be seemingly unnerving to some visitors. Be aware of where they are, and prepared for what you will find.

Constitucion- This is where a major train station is located. Besides the gorgeous station, the rest of this neighborhood is not very attractive. Daytime it is filled with beggars and general commotion from the multitude of buses. Night brings homeless, drug users, prostitutes, and increased theft. Located on the opposite side of July Ninth avenue from San Telmo and just beside Monserrat, Constitucion is highly recommended to avoid, mostly at night.

Once- A very busy neighborhood with tons of discount shops. If you are searching for VERY cheap clothing and random knickknacks without concern for top quality, this is your place. Again, general commotion of people and buses abound. Petty theft can occur. Avoid the area at night if possible.

MicroCentro- The cities business center is filled with gorgeous architecture, international negotiations, and fun (touristy) Florida street during the day. As business people leave in the evening, people fill the now black streets to search for recyclables to sell. Best avoided if possible at night as it is all but abandoned.

 

 

Climate

            Argentina is in the Southern Hemisphere. This means seasons are the opposite of those in North America and Europe. Do not expect the temperatures to be the same as at home! In springtime, Argentina is very pleasant mid- range temperatures with occasional spring showers. Winter temperatures can raise to levels comparable of those in New York in the summertime. During summer, make sure to bring light clothing. Fall sees cooler temperatures and a chance of light showers. Local Argentina Travel Guide recommends dressing in layers. Winter can get rainy and chilly at night. Buenos Aires locals wear lots of stylish pea coats and boots.

 

Local Transportation

            Buenos Aires has arguably the best public transportation system in the world. You can choose from subways, buses, taxis, or walking.

            The subway system is called the ¨subte¨ which is short for subterranean. There is five lines which cover much of the city. Currently a subway ride costs $.90 Argentine cents. Tickets can be purchased as windows located at the entrance to each stop.

            The bus system in Buenos Aires is mind-boggling. Each bus is independently owned and operated. The lines are organized according to the bus number. Beware that a certain line number can have several different variations. The variations are labeled on a sign on the lower right hand corner of the front windshield. Finding a bustop is done by looking up about 3 meters to posts located on the streets. When the bus approaches the stop, hail it like a taxi cab or it will not stop. There are different fares depending on the distance you will travel. Although the minimum ticket costs $.90 Argentine cents, a safe bet is just to tell the chofer one peso, as generally that will be the cost for any trip within the city yet over ten blocks.

            Buenos Aires is a great walking city. Grab a local guide (called guia T) or your I Go Buenos Aires Travel guide and new friend, and hit the streets. Street signs are located at the top of the first story on building on the street corners. They are about one meter in length.

            On your I Go Buenos Aires trip, we generally move around the city with a combination of these three methods. Taxis are available, but often can actually deter from the experience. Travel in Buenos Aires done by bus, subway, and on foot allow you to see, feel, hear, touch, and experience the culture. Your Argentina guide will be available 24 hours a day so you can explore with confidence.

 

Money

The currency in Argentina is the Argentine Peso. The peso has held relatively stable at a 3 to 1 exchange rate with the US dollar.

Buenos Aires is very affordable. However, since the 2001 crash of the economy, prices have picked back up (please remember this when reading out of date internet information boasting $3.00 dinners and $1.00 beers). Prices still remain lower than any city in the US and all European destinations. Check out below for a current guide to average prices in Buenos Aires.

 

Buenos Aires Price Guide (in US dollars)

1 Liter Beer: $3.00

Mixed Drink: $4.00

Average Lunch for Two: $20.00

Entrance to Museums: Free- $5.00

Entrance to Nightclubs: $15.00 +

Spanish Lessons (per hour): $12.00

 

It is best to avoid paying with credit cards. Most major establishments will accept them, but often smaller restaurants and shops will impose a minimum charge. It is absolutely necessary to carry a form of ID as the law now states that credit cards can only be accepted with ID:

There are ATM´s located throughout the city. It is always recommended to take out the least amount necessary. Buenos Aires is a very safe city, but like any other major international cities, there are pickpockets.

Tipping is a common practice only in restaurants in Buenos Aires. As a general guide, 10% is appropriate. However, this is neither obligatory nor expected rather just good karma.

Summer days, having a blast

October 15, 2008

As it starts to cool off in the north hemisphere, down here things are just heating up. But, what is a person to do to make the most of the summer without sweltering in the heat? There are too many options to count! I am a firm believer that if you are bored of Buenos Aires, you are bored of life.

Where will we be this summer? Out and about. What will we be doing? Everything!

My summertime favorites are:

 

1)      Hop aboard a ferry boat to take you along the Tigre River. Although this lies a bit outside of the microcenter of Buenos Aires, it is a not to be missed summertime favorite. Enjoy the scenery before stopping off on one of the islands to enjoy the greenery, BBQs, and beach going. Think of Tigre as a more intimate form of a beach town, without quite as many people and with more natural follage. When we go, we hop over to one of the islands which has a real beach, barbeque, and best of all WAKEBOARDING!! It’s so nice to really take advantage of what is right here at our doorstep with some wakeboarding. It is the closest I can get to surfing (without heading more than 5 hours out of town and donning a 3/2 wetsuit just to get mediocre surf).

2)      Take to San Telmo’s cobblestone streets on a Sunday. Alright, so you may encounter more tourists here than any other time in Buenos Aires, but it is for definitely worth it. There are over 14 blocks which for just one day a week become pedestrian streets. Tango dancers, various musicians (including a Brazilian drum parade), orchestras and artists all make this a carnival of sights and sounds. Make sure to get a “pan relleno” for lunch; these are breads often baked in local homes filled with any assortment of delicious vegetables, cheeses, and meats. We head up to I GO headquarters around sunset, which happens to also be the time when the brazilian drum and dance parade fills the streets. Sipping on wine, watching the sunset and dancing in the balcony as rhythm shakes everything from the cobblestone streets to the walls of the fourth story unit.

3)      Hit to the streets for a “sky tour”. Buenos Aires architecture is like none other in the world as it crosses historical buildings with modern skyscrapers. Walk throughout the city, catching as many of the arches, copulas, and historical balconies, backlit with mirrored office buildings. Truly a cosmopolitan capital! Try doing this as you head out to Palermo on the third Friday of every month. Here you will find a more sophisticated cosmopolitan version of a pub crawl- a wine tasting! With over 15 vineyards represented, all placed in front of some of the hippest stores in the world, you can’t help but realize you are in a mecca of style!

4)      Put on your most dancing shoes and go dance among some of the most attractive people in the world. Creamfields is a musical event unlike any other which features over 20 musicians, open air fields, over 15 thousand attendees and lasts all night long. Whether you are an electronic music lover or not, this festival will be one you can never forget. November 8th, mark your calendar! If you miss Creamfields, don’t worry! Whether you want to dance or go to an outdoor festival, Spring and Summer in Buenos Aires are filled every weekend with activities.

5)      Grab a bike and stroll through Palermo’s French-inspired parks. Filled with lakes, golf courses, trails, and gardens, there is no city park that comes close to Buenos Aires’! Make sure to put aside a bit of your time for this, as intermittent naps in the sun, biking, and flower smelling are bound to happen!


Well, if you are in Buenos Aires, hope you can join us in our ramp through summer.

If you are still planning on coming to Buenos Aires, just ask and we can let you know what awesome events are in the upcoming months. You never know what is waiting for you!

 

Cheers,

 

 

Kate

Kate@IGoBuenosAires.com

www.IGoBuenosAires.com

What to drink in Buenos Aires?

October 8, 2008

If you are planning to visit Argentina within the next months, there is a list of things you might be wondering about the city. Some of them are what to do, what to eat (and what not to) and what to drink. This is a really simple list, and today we are going to focus on the item number three: What are the MUST DRINK of Buenos Aires. To be honest, I’m not an eminence on the drinking world, specially because I can barely remember what I drink. So I always avoid thinking, and try to remember one survival phrase: Un Fernet Por Favor! You can skip the Por Favor, if that’s too much to remember. Or if you just want your drink and avoid establishing a sentimental relationship with the bartender, just remember one word: Fernet!. Please take note of this word. Put it in your wallet, right next to your mother’s picture, because believe me, you are going to need it.



So, what is Fernet? Technically, is an Italian digestive with 150-year history. It is a bitter balsam, extracted from many herbs and spices (saffron is one of 40 components) and then aged in oak barrels for at least one year. It was traditionally served at the end of the meal as it is supposed to help you digest food as well as to “clean” the tongue. However, I would say that in these days, It is served after a few beers, and it only helps you have a great night.

So, one more time, remember this word each time you walk into a bar, and be prepared to drink what argentines (and Italians) drink, and come back home with little idea of what you did at night, but with your tongue super clean!

Cheers!

Jose

www.IGoBuenosAires.com

Winner for Favorite Parilla (grill) in San Telmo

September 11, 2008

drum roll please…… My favorite parrilla in San Telmo is hands down Des Nivel.

The servers are older gentleman who crack jokes, give dirty looks, don’t bother with fancy table service, and get your food to you in record time (generally). Most of them have been them just as long as Des Nivel itself, and feel like well-worn fixtures to the local. Try your hand at spanish. They are really good at understanding what you want, even though the majority couldn’t express much back in english. No matter whether they understand you or not, I can assure you whatever they bring to the table will be fantastic. Parrilla, pasta, or house specialties, this is a great bet for a San Telmo (or Buenos Aires) restaurant.

Why? Great food, not so inflated prices, authentic staff, no pretention, Great Food, good vibe

Where? Calle Defensa, on the 800 block

When? Everynight is great! Avoid Sunday’s as those are the busiest day in the neighborhood, so you can often get a super tired server or a menu item that is unavailable. This is really common in San Telmo, and Des Nivel probably does the best job in the area of avoiding it, but it can still happen. Monday mid-day it is not open.

What? Here is my tried and true favorite menu, very traditional!

Starter:

Provelta Provenzal- Grilled fresh provolne cheese topped with roasted red pepper, mediterranean spices, and a dash of yummieness.

Chorizo- Grilled sausage. One is enough for two people so as not to order too much.

 

Entree:

Vacio, juicy style- Amazing steak that you will never forget. Argentines cook meat on the well-done side, so you must specify that you want it med-rare.

 

Sides:

Complete Salad- You must have some fresh non-meat items on the table in order to keep your palette refreshed and not get overwhelmed in the rich foods. Also, salad is just good ;-)

Fries (fritas)- Again, I like provenzal. This (with tons of garlic) could be an overload for some people, but I like the unique flavor of this normally super- common side dish.

 

Desert:

Housemade Flan with Dulce de Leche and whipped creme- When eating flan, don’t even bother if it is not housemade. The taste is just so much more quality! Top it with Dulce de Leche, which is one of the Argentine pride and joys. You must get it topped with hand whipped creme in order to really get the complete experience.

 

Wine:

1/2 Penguinito- This is just a house wine. It is a great table wine as it is pretty hard to get a bad Argentine wine. Plus, where else in the world does your wine come served in a penguin shapped carafe?

Total Price: About what 2 McDonals combos cost in the US.

 
Enjoy,

Kate

www.IGoBuenosAires.com

Museum Nightclub

September 11, 2008

I love Museum! Ok, now that I have that little school girl crush blurt off my chest, I can breathe normally.

Museum is such the epitamy of Buenos Aires nightlife and culture ; old and young, silicone-enhanced and goth grunge all mingle between three floors. If you don’t find someone of your liking to speak with here, you should probably just stay home in pajamas as you probably won’t find it anywhere else.

Museum is comprised of three floors; one main dance floor with two bars, and second and third stories wrapping around the main floor as a balcony. Each of these upper levels has its own bar, and are filled with lounge like couches and tables. These upper levels are exclusive for the VIP crowd. The VIP’s consist of the lovely, well-dressed, well-off, “friend of someone”, who sip on wine and champagne. the ambience is a little bit more refined, and a little bit more intimate. Make it up here if mingling is more of a priority than dancing (there is dancing up here, but it is a slightly more limited).

Downstairs the dancefloor is filled with everyone from Bachelorette parties, highlighted metro men, grunge rockers, and the more chill tee-shirt wearing crowd. This massive dancefloor is dominated by dancing, with the outskirts being filled with hanger-outers, bar huggers, and chatting groups. In the far end of the groundfloor there is a catwalk which many nights will feature scantily clad hotties of both sexes strutting their stuff, much to the appreciation of the tipsy crowd. Hangout downstairs if you want a more rowdy, varied ambience.

We usually visit Museum on Wednesdays and Fridays. Wednesdays are pretty cool for “after-office” parties, which start a bit earlier than the typical Argentine night and allow you to get up for work the next day. Fridays are a whole other story- daylight usually has hit by the time we can pull ourselves out of Museum. There is nothing better than a drunken breakfast of pastries. I would consider this the “Churro Walk of Shame”.

Entrance to Museum is currently $35 pesos for guys and girls. The line can get long. Luckily we don’t worry about either of these thanks to our good friends at Musuem. Come join us to rock it like a VIP!

I Go Buenos Aires leads pub crawls which end in Musuem Wednesdays and Fridays. You can add in if the group maximum has not yet been reached.

Contact Info@IGoBuenosAires.com for details.

 

Cheers,

Kate

www.IGoBuenosAires.com

Sunday Street Fairs

September 5, 2008

So I have just put up a video we shot this weekend. Sundays in Buenos Aires are the one day that you CAN NOT miss. Between San Telmo, The Boca, Plaza Francia and soccer matches, there is seriously something for everyone. This weekend the group I was with decided to see San Telmo and The Boca. These two neighborhoods are probably more traditional for Buenos Aires than apple pie is American (actually I think pie was invented somewhere else, but you get the point). This duo tour is on my “5 must do’s” in the city.

This Sunday ended up being a Tango extravangza. There are also the occasional dancers (most really bad in reality) tangoing a few bucks out of tourists. It takes a true talent from one of them to ever impress or even entertain me.  However, this Sunday all the stops were pulled as what seemed like the best dancers in the city came out to perform. Could it be that the 6th annual international festival of Tango had just ended and a ton of professional dancers had flooded the city? Possibly. All that I really cared about was that this week, there were 10 times more Tango dancers than normal, and they were REALLY good.

After wondering Defensa street, we hung out to watch the locals (who don’t dance for tips) strut their stuff in Plaza Dorrego. The old, young, good, bad, brunette, bald, all come out to dance a tango or two in the plaza. Make sure to make your way to the center of the plaza to see this group, it is a more authentic taste of Tango.

Next we headed over to the Boca. The Boca is really only fun (and safest) on weekends. The cafe’s pull tables into the streets, musicians on the patios, and dancers in the streets for passer-byers to enjoy. Sit at one of these cafe’s and order a Choripan (fresh baguette with chorizo) for about 4 pesos. This is equivalent to a tango and orchestra show with lunch for U$S 1.50. Not such a bad deal huh?

Later, (and my personal favorite part) is the return to San Telmo after dark. Plaza Dorrego only really comes alive on Sundays, so this must be done on a Sunday. If you head to the Plaza after dusk, you will find a local group of dancers, who are not dancing for tips, and who lack the shiny costumes of those dancing in the afternoon. They are noticeably less flashy, but probably 10 times the dancers! This week an aging, balding, inebriated woman enjoyed a dance with a more agile (and attractive hehe) young guy. They danced happily, enjoying the tradition and sheer pleasure of dancing. This was community!

 

Well, hope to see you all around one of these Sundays. Let us know when you will be in town and we will be sure to let you in on a few more Sunday secret spots.

Cheers

Kate
www.IGoBuenosAires.com

Monday’s Volunteering

August 11, 2008

Since today is Monday, I guess I should explain a little about how we normally start our week. We go volunteering. Seriously, it can be too much for some people. It’s not like when you read books at the retirement home. Sometimes, it can feel like drowning, seeing kids who spend their days begging. We are all so fortunate, and the same fortune has not smiled on them. I’m not going to lie, not going to say they all frolick and play and smile. The only thing I can say is that when we return every Monday, and they see different people from around the world coming to help, I can start to see something change in them. I would call it hope, maybe the cheesy “twinkle in their eye”. Someone cares. Someone cares about them. Someone cares about them to come to their neighborhood, help them, and share some time with them.

Does anyone else get the mixed glum/ good feeling from volunteering? What has been your best experience volunteering?

 

Kate

Kate@IGoBuenosAires.com

www.IGoBuenosAires.com

Bigger Better Night Tours

August 8, 2008

So, we are massively adding to our nightlife tours. We have always visited tons of different places, had tons of different drinks, and had an amazing time. Now we are about to launch an even bigger, better (for some reason I have the need to say wetter) night tour. It’s funny, had I been at home in California, or even just living here, I would never have been able to get into half these places. No amount of low cut tops and winking works 100% of the time I guess!

So, back from the tangent. Prepare yourselves for what is to come. Some big names, big places, and great stuff is about to be added. Get ready! Count down is set to begin…

Buenos Aires Nightlife!

July 27, 2008

So, you think you’ve seen it all. I could say that too. From hanging out in a Spanish plaza holding my beer with a group of unknown friends, having a Margarita at the beach in tropical Mexican beaches, enjoying a  caipirinha in Brazil, dancing in a VIP club in California. I could talk about this all day long. And if you ask me where my perfect night would take place? Well, I wouldn’t have to think it twice. Buenos Aires is my choice. Where did I end up being after years of looking for the perfect place to party? Back to the roots! And with one mission! Show the world what a perfect night in the perfect place is like. We have tirelessly searched the city for the best pubs, coolest clubs, tastiest drinks, and hottest crowds, tipped off many bouncers, made friends with every bartender, and slept very little (It’s a hard job but somebodies gotta do it!), all to bring you the VIP Buenos Aires Pub Crawl.
In this section, we are going to inroduce you to those hidden spots, share all our secrets and show you how Buenos Aires is like when the lights are turned off. 
I Go travelers’ party all night long, so the only question is; Can you make it to sunrise? 

Jose Luis
www.IGoBuenosAires.com

I Go Buenos Aires launchs Travel Blog!

July 21, 2008

Hi World! It is a pleasure for I Go Buenos Aires to now belong to this community. In our blog, we will share our stories, our travelers´ experiences and some tips to enjoy what is, from my point of view, the most exciting and unique city of the world. Often compared to Paris for its beauty and Spain for its cuisine, Argentina is soaked in passion from its Latin American location. This passion is visualized in traditional Tango, tasted in its succulent meats, smelled in its fragrant wines, felt in the pumping Buenos Aires nightlife, and heard in the cheers of its undyingly loyal Argentina soccer fans. Unabashedly patriotic, Argentina warmly welcomes tourists from all parts of the world.
Love traveling? Have experiences to share? Questions about Buenos Aires must see sites? All your comments are more than welcome!
Have a great day!

Jose Luis
www.IGoBuenosAires.com

 
 
 
 
 
 

 


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